Tuesday, February 16, 2010

vine ring is done

OK, so I got the ring done. I have temporary molds in sizes 10ish - 12.5ish. My next task is to get permanent vulcanized molds for sizes 9 - 13.

This is my first men's ring design in a long, long time. The design is an old texture that I recently used for the back of 'garnet door' pendant. I expanded the old brick texture with vines on the back side of 'window and branches pendant'.

I believe the deep three dimensional surface will retain a measure of the dark patina when worn - depends on what the wearer does with their hands.

This ring was a test for designing more wearable wide bands. The inside of the ring is convex in shape. When measuring the ring, I allow the mandrel sizing mark to slip over the ring until it gets near the slightly bulging center of the ring, where the convex shape finally touches the mandrel. This makes the ring fit a person closer to the same size as a thinner band would fit. It also seems the be more comfortable to wear, thus the phrase 'comfort fit band' that some designers apply to this style of band.

The band seems to hold its convex shape when sized up 1.5 sizes. When sizing up beyond that point, there seems to be a noticeable flattening of the interior.

A size 11 weighs about 11 grams, nearly bang-on what I had in mind. After being remolded and recast, it will end up being about 10 grams. I think this will be my target weight for convex, wide band ring designs in the future.

I have mentally sketched and purchased the stones for an onyx orb ring that will use an insect/alien design similar to the upcoming mindworm pod pendant #2. I hope to get both these designs in the next pour, along with an 'industrial decay' bronzite bracelet.


  1. I like your work, I would like to know how you resize your rings? I do lost wax casting and want to start a line of rings.

  2. Hi Sam.

    I do not have a single way to size that works for all rings. Some of the options I pick from are: sizing each ring in injection wax, resizing a metal master, resizing wax originals, making all sizes of molds so there is no need to re-size, or simply to stretch the ring after casting on either a ring stretcher or tapered mandrel. As far as the last choice, there can be a limit to how much you can stretch a cast ring depending on the alloy and porosity of the metal. I try not to exceed 1.25 sizes up, and rarely go up 2 sizes(US).

    Depends on the production level and complexity of the ring as to what fits best in each individual case.